In the province of León, close to the little town of Riaño, there’s… the biggest swing in Spain. It’s set at 1200 meters above sea level, on the viewpoint Mirador de Las Hazas, right next to León’s most famous (and maybe most photogenic!) bench, with amazing views of the lake and mountains.
Honestly, we were more excited to see Riaño itself, and the swing was a lovely surprise, it was literally just a few steps from our campsite.
We only planned to stay one night at the campsite, although many others were staying longer, enjoying vacations by the lake.
This place really has something special... and it’s not just about the views, it’s the whole atmosphere
A forgotten story still echoing beneath the surface
Although Riaño amazes now with its views and peacefulness, its history is full of challenges and controversy.
Work to build the reservoir began back in the 1960s, but it wasn’t until early 1988 that the project really started working. The official goal was to irrigate 80,000 hectares, but over time, it turned out that number was greatly exaggerated. According to more recent studies by the Water Authority, the land that can actually be irrigated is no more than 32,000 hectares.
There’s also a hydroelectric plant at the dam, but its electricity output is quite small compared to what was once imagined.
The biggest cost of all this was paid by the people. Whole villages were submerged: Anciles, Éscaro, Huelde, La Puerta, Pedrosa, Riaño, and Salió, and parts of Burón and Vegacerneja too. These were not just locations on a map, homes, schools, churches, and entire communities had to leave.
The valley’s flooding sparked dramatic protests from locals, which echoed across Spain. The authorities built a new Riaño, and families that were relocated received compensation, land, and money. But, as is often the case, money couldn’t erase the sense of loss.
Today, when you look at the calm surface of the lake, it’s hard to believe there’s so much history underneath. Sometimes, when water levels are low, you can still see the ruins of submerged villages, as though the “real” Riaño is still there… just hidden.
A short walk above the campsite’s fence and you’re at the swing with views over Parque Regional Montaña de Riaño y Mampodre. The sharp, wild peaks surrounding the reservoir are striking, majestic, untouched.
Sunrise swinging was pure joy. For a moment I felt like a kid again, legs swinging in the air, pretending to kick clouds…
Useful Info
- In Riaño there’s a camper parking area with services: you can empty grey water and refill fresh water
- Sleeping overnight there is not allowed — that’s what the nearby campsite is for, where we stayed one night
- From the campsite, the swing and viewpoints are just a few minutes’ walk
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