🌊 🕌 Tanger - mieszanka kultur, smaków i zapachów

From Andalusia to Morocco, A journey through two worlds

The southernmost tip of Andalusia offers an extraordinary panorama of the Strait of Gibraltar, which connects two continents: Europe and Africa.

The view is absolutely stunning, so when traveling through southern Andalusia, consider taking a one or two-day trip to Tangier, easily accessible from the ports of both Algeciras and Tarifa. We opted for a quick ferry ride from Tarifa, and the sight of the European shores fading away was truly unforgettable. The journey takes just over an hour, including the check-in (where baggage is scanned similar to air travel). It was an experience that left a lasting impression.

Tanger - Mieszanka Kultur, Smaków I Zapachów

As soon as we stepped out of the port building, we were bombarded with a barrage of shouts from locals eager to offer their services. A quick tip: if you politely but firmly decline their offers, they will usually back off.

Tangier - a city of many cultures and histories

Tangier, a captivating port city steeped in history, graces the northern Moroccan coast, where the Bou Regreg River gracefully meets the Atlantic. Its origins trace back to ancient Berber civilizations, earning the moniker Tingis from the Greeks, who were captivated by its strategic location and burgeoning trade routes ...
The Phoenicians founded the settlement of Tingis in the 7th century BC. It was later ruled by the Romans, Vandals, and Visigoths. In 707 AD, the Arabs conquered Tingis and Morocco, and it became a base for their raids into the Iberian Peninsula.

Tangier's strategic location and its entanglement in historical conflicts made it a coveted possession, leading to frequent shifts in its national affiliation. In 1471, the city fell under Portuguese rule, a period marked by trade expansion and cultural exchange. Nearly two centuries later, in 1661, Tangier's fate intertwined with the marriage of King Charles II of England to Catherine of Braganza, a Portuguese princess. As part of the dowry, Tangier became a British possession, undergoing a period of English influence and development. However, after 22 years of British rule, the city reverted to Moroccan control, where it remained until the early 20th century.

The colonization of Morocco by France and Spain had a profound impact on Tangier. In 1923, the city became an internationally controlled zone, transcending the boundaries of national sovereignty. This unique status attracted a diverse array of individuals, including the renowned writer William Burroughs, who immortalized the city's bohemian atmosphere in his groundbreaking novel "Naked Lunch." Interzone in its heyday was a destination for many world-class artists who sought exotic oblivion there. Among them were the poet Paul Bowles, members of the Rolling Stones and the Beatles. The Free City area was first under French and Spanish protectorate, under the joint administration of France, Spain, and the United Kingdom. Later, Portugal, Italy, Belgium, the Netherlands, Sweden, and the United States also established their influence and administrative divisions there.

This bizarre cultural melting pot lasted until 1956, when Morocco regained its independence and Tangier was reintegrated into the country.

What's worth seeing in Tangier?

Medina - is the oldest part of the city and is divided into two areas: commercial and residential. The streets cross, and intertwine, and following them we have the impression of walking in a maze. One thing I can admit - there is some kind of magic in all this...
Grand Socco and Petit Socco - Grand Socco is a large shopping square, while Petit Socco, also known as 'Souk Dakhli', is a square in Medina. This used to be Tangier's largest market, with cafes, hotels, and casinos around it, bringing together the richest in the region. There are two charming cafés here with long-standing traditions: Café Tingis and Café Central
Musee de la Kasbah - Here you can learn more about the culture, and history of the city and its inhabitants. Nearby is Fils de Detroit, a great restaurant with live music - it is definitely worth checking out and having a cup of mint tea at least
Cap Spartel and the Cave of Hercules - this place needs to be approached preferably by taxi from Grand Socco. Beware of swindlers! - The cave is easy to get around and we won't need anyone's help to explore the place
St Andrew's Church - an interesting Moorish-style church, with an English cemetery next door

Coffee & mint tea...

And if you want to relax with a Moroccan tea, here are some cool spots below:

The above-mentioned Café Tingis and Café Central in Petit Socco
Anna & Paolo recommended and very cosy bar
Café Hafa – An iconic café with a century of tradition, located in the center of Tangier. It has hosted many famous writers, artists, and musicians over the decades. The balcony offers a magnificent view of the bay
Gran Café de París – the most important cultural and literary venue of the era, the "Zona Internacional"

Tangier is not a big city, so getting around the old town does not require a car or a guide. If you want to see other districts of the city or its surroundings, it is safe to take up the offer of pushy taxi drivers. However, be warned: be sure to haggle, and haggle some more - such is the culture and custom in Morocco.

Let's not fully trust the offers made, as they can be misleading. Let's treat the conversation as a fun adventure, but let's not expect that an ordinary taxi driver can take us inside the villas and palaces of sheikhs, etc. He will take us to their surroundings and show us the hedge behind the magnificent, richly decorated fence - and that's it ;)

Zanim wsiądziemy do taksówki warto zwrócić uwagę na jej stan techniczny, bo raz, mogliśmy przez dziurę w podłodze oglądać nawierzchnię drogi 🙂

How to get there

CLICK HERE to check out departure times, reservation options, information, and prices. You can purchase tickets in advance, or in the office before entering the port of Tarifa.

PS On two occasions, we have seen passengers being let in and out of the upper deck through the walkway near the cars on the lower deck of the ferry. At the end of the journey, people gather downstairs in the exit queue and place their heavy luggage on the cars bonnets with total indifference. Suitcases, trunks and large backpacks scratched the paint. If you travel by car ('cause you're going further into Morocco), I would recommend that you get your car queued up as early as possible so that your car is as far away from the entrance as possible.

I highly recommend the captivating novel "The Seamstress" by María Dueñas, a captivating tale of love, intrigue, and resilience set against the backdrop of Tangier's rich history and vibrant culture.